Is there more than one kind of "Fair Trade"?

This fair trade stuff is pretty complicated.  I think we're all starting to understand what “organic” means by this point - it conjures images of green fields and perfectly red, natural tomatoes. Technically, organic means grown without pesticides, but it also might mean that the product comes from a smaller farm with other kinds of socially responsible practices.  So what’s really “fair trade”?  We at Eva & Paul had a chat with a representative of the Fair Trade Federation and a representative of Fair Trade USA who explained that there are really a few types of fair trade:

Fair Trade Certified Commodities: TransFair (which includes Fair Trade USA) certifies the well-known Fair Trade products like coffee and chocolate, as well as cotton, gold, bananas, etc.  They don’t have anything to do with the business practices of businesses that BUY these products, just of the businesses that get the products out of the ground.  Let’s take, for example, a Fair Trade banana.  This banana was harvested by a co-operative in Mexico.  The farmers were paid well, the banana was harvested during reasonable hours of the day, etc.  So the banana gets Fair Trade certified.  Then Whole Foods buys the banana from the co-op, loads it on a truck, and brings it to Texas.  Were the truckers paid well?  Are Whole Foods employees paid well?  Maybe, but maybe not.  The banana is still Fair Trade.  This makes lots of sense.  But think about a chunk of cotton.  Same thing - if it comes out of the ground Fair Trade, so be it.  But what about the person who SEWS the cotton into clothing?  No idea.  Also, as our cotton producers in India explained, the cost paid to farmers for "Fair Trade" cotton is based on the highest quality cotton, while the cotton used for denim is the lowest quality.  Our partners explained that Fair Trade cotton for them was 3x the price of regular cotton, vs. 2x for organic cotton.  So for now, Eva & Paul uses organic cotton that supports family farms, but our denim is not actually Fair Trade, even though we follow similar socially responsible principles.

Fair Trade Manufacturing:  To think through some of these questions, Fair Trade USA has started to also certify factories in emerging markets "Fair Trade" when they employ responsible practices for their employees.  One of these practices is to allow for funds to go into a collective where employees can either distribute the funds as a bonus or use the funds for education programs for their children, health initiatives, etc. This leads to not only better wages and working conditions, but also empowerment for the factory workers.  The only trouble is that for a factory to be certified "Fair Trade" it has to be "Trade" which means "Made in the USA" doesn't count.  Unfortunately or fortunately, depending how you look at it, Eva & Paul is still too small to move our manufacturing out of NYC.  So for now, our manufacturing is not Fair Trade, even though we employ similar principles in terms of wages and worker treatment.  We also think about environmental responsibility, which is not accounted for per se in Fair Trade certification.

Fair Trade Certified Businesses: But what about all these "Fair Trade" earrings I see at 10,000 Villages?  To deal with some of the questions around goods that are NOT commodities, the Fair Trade Federation started certifying BUSINESSES as "Fair Trade".  These businesses have a social mission to treat employees well and they sell all kinds of products.  So lets think about cotton again for a second.  Instead of certifying the raw cotton, the Fair Trade Federation is interested in what happens to the cotton after it has been harvested.  Who processes the cotton?  Who sews it?  How does the cotton make it to the U.S.?  Fair treatment and wages for employees through the WHOLE supply chain is needed.  Eva & Paul works with a Fair Trade company in India to source our hand-printed pocketing fabric.  The beautiful designs are crafted by artisans who are given fair wages and good treatment.  Clearly this doesn't make our jeans Fair Trade - they're not.  But our jeans are made with environmental and social responsibility in mind - we think this should be the most important thing.  And, above all, we will strive to get even more certifications for us and for all our partners as we grow!

Alysia Reiner rocks E&P at Great Expectations premier!

Alysia Reiner plays Natalie “Fig” Figueroa on Orange is the New Black, a tough prison administrator with questionable ethics.  In real life, however, Alysia is as green as newly mowed lawn and the nicest person you'll meet.  And, let's face it, she's hot!  Especially in Eva & Paul jeans - on the red carpet, no less!

Actress Alysia Reiner attends the New York premiere of 'Charles Dickens' Great Expectations' at AMC Loews Lincoln Square 13 theater on November 5, 2013 in New York City.(November 4, 2013 - Source: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images North America)

Actress Alysia Reiner attends the New York premiere of 'Charles Dickens' Great Expectations' at AMC Loews Lincoln Square 13 theater on November 5, 2013 in New York City.

(November 4, 2013 - Source: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images North America)

Alysia+Reiner+Great+Expectations+Premieres+vGop1oEJDQFl.jpg

Shirts, socks and scarves, oh my. Fashion Thursday - men's edition.

Is it ever too early to early to start thinking about Holiday shopping? The folks at Artists & Fleas in the Chelsea Market in the NYC Meatpacking district don't think so.  E&P founder Julia skipped by to visit her friend Jeff Zhang, founder of men's online brand Shop Spectre. His "Shirt Shop" has been quite a hit, and, while working on the floor, he met Andrew of Curated Basics. Together they're making gift sets that include a shirt, pocket square, and socks - the perfect gift!

Denim's almost done! - Behind the Scenes Wednesday

Founder Julia Kastner visited our factory in the garment district, and, to her delight, discovered that our jeans are almost finished in production and are looking spectacular! Pockets have been cut, logos embroidered, and most of the stitching is complete. Next the jeans need to go to the wash house to be laundered, and finishing touches, like our custom buttons, need to be added. We'll hopefully start shipping jeans by the end of next week! Stay tuned!  

Julia, should I really put jeans in my freezer? - Fashion Thursday

As I go around town showing off my E&P jeans, a lot of questions turn to denim care. Here are a few answers to the most common jeans care questions: 

 

How should I wash my jeans? And how often?

We rinse our Eva & Paul jeans before sale, so they're not "raw" like many other premium jeans on the market these days.  Because of this, feel free to wash them.  But, according to our resident denim expert, Christine Rucci, make sure you wash them inside out so there's no abrasion to the denim - this will keep them looking dark and clean. 

Won't washing the jeans make them fade?

Our jeans do fade with wash, but not a ton - after wearing my jeans for 33 days straight during Kickstarter and washing them four times, they still look really dark, just slightly more worn.  

Can I put the jeans in the dryer?

You can put them in the dryer, but they will shrink a bit, so it's better if you let them mostly drip dry.  To get that nice cozy dryer feel, though, feel free to stick them into the dry cycle for the last 5 minutes or so. 

What's this about putting your jeans in the freezer?

Some denim brands, especially "raw" denim that hasn't been washed in the manufacturing process, recommend not washing your jeans at all.  Instead of washing the, you put them in the freezer between wears to keep odor-causing bacteria from growing in the meantime. Then they spot-clean the jeans over time. As a resident of Greenpoint Brooklyn with a tiny freezer already full of food, there's no way I could do this.  And to tell you the truth, I don't want to.  I'd rather wash my clothes every few weeks, merci.

Do you wash your jeans in the bathtub? 

I don't think my roommate would approve of my washing my jeans lying flat in the bathtub, as apparently die-hard denim heads do. I also don't think it's necessary given that we've tumble-washed our jeans in the manufacturing process.  But if you want to give it a try, feel free! Let me know if it works!

Would dry cleaning be better?

One of my best friends from college sent all her jeans to the dry cleaner.  They came back stiff with a crease down the front.  This isn't really my style, but I don't think it does the jeans any harm.

Why is it easier to care for Eva & Paul jeans than jeggings?

Great question! We use heavier-weight fabric for our jeans than many of our competitors that allows our jeans to stand the test of time. Also, using too much polyester and Lycra sometimes causes "jegging" style jeans to stretch out over the course of the day, so you have to wash them more frequently to get them back to the original size, causing the fibers to come out in the wash and the jeans to quickly disintegrate.  Our jeans keep their shape, so you don't have to wash them as often!

Oh Canada! - Travel Tuesday

Any mention of cheese or crepes sends Julia Kastner, Founder & CEO of Eva & Paul, down memory lane to her favorite city in Canada.  

When Julia is looking for a quick get-away from the bustle of New York City, her first choice is to unwind in Montreal.  Having lived there during college, she was able to really discover its gems - elegant eats, scenic views, and a sophisticated oh-so-french air.  As a former trading port and gateway to Canada, Montreal's rich history resonates throughout its streets.  Three peaks called Mount Royal Mountain ( or Parc du Mont-Royal!) rest in the heart of the city, giving a calming energy.  With 19 boroughs surrounding this amazing city, there's always an adventure around the corner... 

WHERE TO GO

 Photo sourced from tumblr.com

 Photo sourced from tumblr.com

The Plateau gives a feeling of New York's East Village with a French flair - also one of Julia's favorite hangouts.  Walking into to this bohemian part of town, you'll come across many art galleries.  From top to bottom, Julia recommends its books, cafes, and colorful houses.  Its laid back attitude makes it the perfect low-key resting spot with a perfect view - just facing the eastern slop of Parc du Mont-Royal.

 

WHERE TO SHOP

Although Julia is not fluent in French, she has mastered some key phrases to make sure that she can shop!  Taking a stroll in 'Old Montreal' down St. Laurent Blvd. and St. Denis is where you will find the best boutiques and shops.  It also happens to be where Julia bought a timeless styled prom dress on an all-girls trip.  Apart from great style, these streets are filled with old charm.  The architecture, restaurants, and many small boutiques transport you to another era - making it quaint and cozy.  You can easily cover these shopping strips in less than a full day, giving you plenty of time for more exploration. 

WHERE TO EAT

Photo sourced from www.montreal-tourisme.org

Photo sourced from www.montreal-tourisme.org

There are two things Julia cannot live without - chocolate and french fries. 

So, when unwinding from a day of browsing and shopping, Julia will always head over to 'Juliette et Chocolate,' to choose from a large selection of raw chocolates straight from the plantations of tucked cities in South America.  Afterwards, she'll enjoy her favorite - the classic 'Poutine' or, french fries topped with brown gravy and cheese curd. For the finale, she'll go for some foie gras.

Photo sourced from fashionframboise.com

Photo sourced from fashionframboise.com

Photo sourced from Julietteetchocolate.com

Photo sourced from Julietteetchocolate.com

Could trying on at home be the key to e-commerce?

Last week, the ladies of Eva & Paul conducted an experiment, thanks to the help of our friends at M.M. LAFLEUR. We ordered four beautiful dresses in a range of sizes to try on in the comfort of our own home.  Why did we three girls on a budget feel comfortable giving these dresses a try?  Because the deal with M.M. Lafluer is that you get to try on the dresses without paying - they send you the dresses, hold your credit card, and only charge you for what you don't return.  And the dresses came in the cutest packaging, that made it super easy to pack back up and return what we didn't want.  We were so sad to see some of the dresses go - it's no wonder that Sarah Lafluer, the company's founder, find that many customers keep all four dresses! This model

photo (74).JPG

Other companies have seen the success of at-home try-ons as well.  Warby Parker, an online (and now somewhat off-line) glasses company will send five pairs of glasses to a customer's home.  These glasses don't have lenses - in fact, according to a source in the company, they're sent from an entirely different fulfillment center than the glasses with lenses.  Once a customer finds the perfect pair, they can order them online and enter in their prescription.

 Trunk Club is another company focusing on at-home try-ons.  Like M.M. LAFLEUR, you get to keep whatever merchandise you like and only pay for what you don't send back. Trunk Club is just for the guys, operating under the idea that a lot of guys could use style help.  Personal stylists work with customers to select the clothes that go into the "trunk". But don't worry ladies, companies like Stitch Fix are emerging to provide at-home shopping and style advice for women!

Here at E&P, we had a great time trying the M.M. LAFLEUR dresses on in the comfort of our office. We're busy women and don't necessarily have tons of time to go shopping.  We're interested to see if at-home try-ons will work for Eva & Paul jeans too, especially since we know that once women try on our jeans, they don't want to give them up!  Stay tuned! 

Hot off the Runway! - Fashion Thursday

Fashion Week wouldn't be complete without the Eva & Paul team attending a show or two - catching a couple of boutique events across the city to scope out up and coming trends. 

Julia Kastner, CEO & Founder of Eva & Paul

Julia Kastner, CEO & Founder of Eva & Paul

Julia Kastner, Founder of Eva & Paul, attended New York City's 'Fair Fashion Runway' last week at WIX Lounge to get up-close and personal with emerging eco-friendly and fair trade brands.  

Perhaps one of the biggest concerns voiced from eco-friendly shoppers is finding apparel, shoes and accessories that are also fashion-forward and trendsetting. After attending this event, Julia is proud to report that this doesn't have to be the case.

Julia was excited to see the line LEOTA by Sarah Carson Cloud, which boasts a complete line of tailored dresses. Like Eva & Paul's jeans, their dresses are sewn in NYC.

 "This dress felt classic with a fun and flirty print. I love the design details across the top, which flatters and enhances your curves," says Julia. She liked the character of 50's glam from the dresses to the cheeky poses of Leota's models.

Model above features Leota's upcoming collection. 

Model above features Leota's upcoming collection. 

Julia also watched how eco-friendly brands are tapping into Avante-garde styles and versatile silhouettes. ReciclaGEM, another featured local brand, showcased innovative designs. "This particular design of a cape with tailored collar was by far my favorite. It was very structured and clean but playful with vibrant prints. 

Overall, it was a great night for meeting like-minded entrepreneurs and experiencing memorable fair design.

Model above features a piece from Recicla GEM's upcoming collection.

Model above features a piece from Recicla GEM's upcoming collection.